Take a deep breath.  The world has changed.  Solo women travelers are no longer bizarre object of pity.  It’s perfectly OK to go to Latin America by yourself, and you will have a great time doing it.  Here are a few tips from the intrepid women of Exito, who have traversed Latin America from top to bottom.

- Trust your instincts.  If something feels off, it probably is.  Remove yourself from the situation so you can think clearly.  People sometimes worry that, by being cautious, they will miss out on some amazing, authentic local experience.  Don’t worry about that.  You will have plenty of authentic local experiences that don’t endanger you.  If it’s something you wouldn’t do at home, don’t do it in another country.  And if it feels bad, it probably is!

- Beaches and alcohol are a dangerous combination.  Most people in Latin America are kind, generous, and respectful.  Some are not, and unfortunately they tend to be drawn to beach scenes.  After a few drinks, your wits and reactions are both slow.  Something as simple as going outside to pee may end horribly.  One Exito employee spent 5 years working with tourists in South America.  She estimates that 95% of the rapes and assaults that she heard of took place at beaches, usually with alcohol involved.  Be careful where you drink and with whom.  Party at your hotel’s bar, so you don’t have to walk home.  Or find a group of other women to go out with, so you can all keep an eye out for each other.  While this is good advice anywhere, it’s especially important in a beach setting.

- Be aware of cultural norms.  These can vary widely from country to country, or even from city to rural areas of the same nation.  Tight skirts and revealing shirts are commonplace in Brazil, but would be quite inappropriate in Bolivia.  Look at the local women.  How are they dressed?  You don’t need to adopt local dress (and honestly, foreigners often look ridiculous in local garb), but check the level of modesty.  Do they generally cover their legs and arms?  If so, do likewise – it will save you a lot of unwanted attention.  While you are looking around, note where you do or do not see women.  If there are no women on a particular street at night, that’s a very good indication that you shouldn’t be there either.

- Be willing to start the conversation.  As a solo woman traveler, you have a unique opportunity to connect with people who would normally never talk to foreigners – elderly women,  mothers with children, young women.   They may assume you are not interested, don’t speak Spanish, or they might just be shy.  Break the ice, and see what happens.  You get a whole different perspective on a place when you learn about it from a 70 year old woman!

- On that note, learn as much Spanish (or Portuguese, in Brazil) as you can.  You don’t have to be fluent to have a great trip, but it’s easy to learn enough to have basic language survival skills.  Be able to shop, ask for directions, get a hotel room, and order food in a restaurant.  Consider doing a quick week (or more, if you have the time) at a language school when you first arrive, just to get yourself up to speed.

- And on the flip side, know when to forget all your Spanish.  When some annoying guy is trying to chat you up, a blank look and an apologetic shrug can do wonders for getting rid of him.

- Ignore, ignore, ignore!  Men in Latin America often will call out to women walking by.  Just ignore it and keep moving.  Yes, it’s annoying, but you aren’t going to change an entire culture single handed.  Avoid making eye contact, keep going, and act as if they don’t exist.

- if that doesn’t work, be willing to make a scene.  If someone is really bothering you, yell at them as loudly as you can, in whatever language comes to mind.  This is not what they want or expect, and on the street they will usually melt quickly away.  If someone gropes you in the subway, grab their hand and bend their fingers backwards until they start screaming.  Then yell at them. Tell him what a pathetic, miserable little twit he is, who can’t even…..ok, ok, you get the picture.  Yeah, it makes a huge scene, but it’s a lot more gratifying than just moving away.

Finally, be your adventurous self!  Revel in the fact that you can do whatever you want, when you want.  You always get to choose the restaurant, and no one will drag you through a museum or ruin that you’d really rather skip.  Enjoy every minute, knowing that you will have great memories and more self-confidence for the rest of your life.

Just as importantly, Peru Rail has restored train services to Aguas Calientes (or Machu Picchu Town) starting March 29.  Things are not, however, 100% normal.  There are still some things to know.

• During the months of April and May 2010, Peru Rail will run its train service to/from Machu Picchu under partial and limited conditions.

• The train tracks have only been repaired between the town of Piscacucho (also known as “Km 82”; one of the entry points to the Inca Trail) and Machu Picchu (or Aguas Calientes). This means that travelers will only be able to board the train to Machu Picchu at this provisionary station (Piscacucho) and, correspondingly, disembark at this station when returning from Machu Picchu back to Cusco. Rail Peru will operate a permanent bus service, free of charge, between Piscacucho and the original train station located in Ollantaytambo.

• Due to the shorter train track portion available during this time (April/May 2010) Peru Rail is not able to operate all of their wagons, thus limiting their seating capacity in the train service to approximately 30% of its regular capacity.  If you are booked on a tour, check with your tour company – there may be time or date changes required.

• During this time, Peru Rail will strictly enforce a luggage policy of only  1 piece of luggage per passenger (bag or backpack), with a maximum weight of 05kg or 11lbs and maximum dimensions (width + height + length) of 62 inches or 157cm.

Rail Peru continues to work to restore full service to Machu Picchu, Peru’s most famous tourist destination.  We at Exito Travel will continue to monitor the situation and keep you informed.

The Latin American honorees are, in alphabetical order, Argentina, Belize, Chile, and Suriname.

Argentina was praised for “a commitment…. towards zero net deforestation, including responsible land management plans and conservation efforts for more than a million hectares of the Atlantic Forest.”   Argentina is also a world leader in setting voluntary greenhouse gas targets.

Belize was a leader in many categories, including top ranking for human rights, as well as outstanding commitment to ecological preservation. (The report did note that homosexuality remains a crime in Belize, but the law does not seem to be enforced).

Chile won praise for environmental commitment, as well as ranking high in civil liberties for it’s citizens.

Suriname made the list due to “its unspoiled rainforest biodiversity and sincere efforts towards ecotourism and environmental preservation.”

The Ethical Traveler is a project of Earth Island Institute.  The annual list seeks to honor nations which are serious about preserving their natural assets, promoting mindful travel, and building an economy in which local communities reap the benefits of tourist revenue.   This list is compiled based on environmental protection, social welfare, and human rights.

But go where?  Where do you fly in to, where should you leave from, and how to decide what to do in between?

Planning a trip, whether it be for a week or a year, takes some thought and, yes, some planning.   Some.  But not too much.  Organizing the trip of your dreams is a matter of striking the right balance between planning ahead and leaving room for spontaneity.

The first place to start is with your traveling companion.  Different people have different levels of comfort with the planning-versus-spontaneous issue, which can lead to problems when you are abroad.   Have an honest conversation (or two or three) about how comfortable each of you will be with things like arriving in a new town with no hotel reservations.  What seems like a small matter can easily be a huge issue when both of you are tired, hungry, and disoriented.  Make sure you can agree on some balance between planning and leaving things open.

The next thing to do is to think hard about what you really want to see.  When you dream of this trip, what is it that comes to mind first and foremost?  I generally advise that each person choose one or two things that they absolutely must see or do while in South America.   Then build your whole trip around those few items.   If everyone gets to see their top thing, everyone will be happy.  Anything else is gravy.

Once you have your must-see list, consider each item.  Do any of them have to be planned in advance, such as the Inca Trail?  To hike the Inca Trail, you must have a permit issued in your name.  Permits sell out well in advance, sometimes as far as 6 months in advance for peak trekking time.  If your itinerary includes doing the Inca Trail, I highly recommend you set up this part of your trip first.  You can then plan the rest of your trip around this less-flexible item.

The same goes for anything with a time constraint on it.   For example, if your dream trip includes Carnaval in Rio, well, you know where you need to be when Carnaval rolls around.  Plug that into the plan first, then build the rest around it

Next, consider geography.  I am constantly surprised by the number of people who call up wanting to fly in to Peru, then go to Venezuela, then to Chile, then to Brazil.  All those hops around South America are going to take either time or money or both.   It will maximize both your time and money to try to travel in a logical direction.  Try to go from north to south, or south to north, instead of jumping all over.

Remember, you can fly in to one city and back out of another.   This is called doing an open jaw.  While an open-jaw ticket may be more expensive up-front, it usually pays off by saving you the cost of backtracking.  For example, a ticket to Caracas is significantly cheaper than a ticket to Buenos Aires.  But if you fly in to Caracas, and travel all the way down to Buenos Aires, but then have to get back to Caracas in order to catch your flight home…well, getting all the way back is going to take a great deal of time, money, or both.   In the long run, it would have been much cheaper to buy a ticket with a return from Buenos Aires.

When considering geography, don’t forget that the seasons are different in the southern hemisphere.  In many places (Peru and Ecuador, for example), they don’t really have summer and winter – they have wet and dry seasons.  If you are planning to hike the Inca Trail, the wet season may be a lot less fun than the dry season.  In deep South America, the seasons are reversed – their winter is our summer.   A visit to Patagonia during our summer would be cold, snowy, and rather unpleasant.  So once again, think about the weather when planning your general itinerary.  Make sure you are in each area at a time when it will be enjoyable.

So, after boiling all your ideas down to a few key places, and taking time and geography into consideration, you have a general plan for your trip.   Your next step really depends on the length of your adventure.

If you are doing a very short trip (say, two weeks), it pays to do more research and plan ahead.   Face it, if you only have 2 days in Cuzco, you probably don’t want to spend 4 hours walking around finding a hotel.  Make more reservations in advance, and plan out your itinerary in more detail.  That way, you can maximize the time you have to see and do things, instead of spending your time on housekeeping details.  Your Exito agent can help you with hotel reservations, train reservations, day tours, and internal flights.

For a longer trip, however, you probably will want to leave things looser.  You may decide you love Riobamba and want to spend a week there, instead of heading on to Cuenca as you had assumed.  Keep the big picture of your trip in mind, so that you don’t miss the important stuff, but leave the details to sort out later, when you are in South America.  You can still make reservations a day or so ahead, when you know where you will really be and what you really want.

Finally, whether you have planned down to the last detail, or have left things very open, be aware that Latin America may have surprises in store for you.  This is not Switzerland – things don’t always run on time, or even run at all.  Roads wash out, buses go on strike, airports are mysteriously closed.  Take a deep breath, remember that this is part of what makes Latin America the wonderful, crazy place it is, and accept it as part of the adventure.   And remember, your Exito agent has email!

Residents of the eastern US may be interested to learn that Jet Blue  has applied for authority from the U.S. Department of Transportation to provide new international service to Punta Cana, Dominican Republic, from New York’s JFK Int’l Airport and Boston’s Logan Int’l Airport.  Punta Cana would be JetBlue’s fourth destination in the Dominican Republic. Look for this new service to start in early May.

The biggest adjustment is relaxing. Babies are a full part of society in Latin America, and people are not reluctant to approach them. I have had the waitress at a restaurant ask if she can take our baby across the street to show her mother, or the waiter whisk the baby to the kitchen to show off to the cook. Relax. They are not dangerous criminals seeking to steal your child – they just think babies are cute, and like to share them. If your baby happens to be blonde and blue-eyed (my oldest child had blonde ringlets as an infant), the attention will be twice as intense. Take it as the compliment that it is. Your baby is adorable — of course people want to admire. You don’t have to let people “borrow” the baby, or anything else you don’t feel comfortable with, but don’t be offended or frightened by the attention.

You will also receive lots of unsolicited advice, just like you do at home. I have had little old ladies in Belize assure me that my 4-month-old was freezing and that I needed to put a sweater on her (it was 80 degrees out!). To this day, when I am at a beach in Latin America with my blonde children, every mother who walks by will worriedly ask me if they have sun screen on. Once again, relax and take these comments in the spirit in which they are intended – true, honest concern for the child. They know you are a visitor, and worry that you may not be aware of how strong the sun is, how cold it actually is (yeah, right!), etc. They say something because they really do care. So, smile, reassure them, and thank them for their advice.
Once you have taken a deep breath and relaxed, it’s time to pack. Don’t go overboard – remember, they have babies in Latin America. Lots of them. So anything that you truly need for a baby, you will be able to obtain down there.

For example, disposable diapers are widely available in Latin America. Even if you usually use cloth diapers, consider using disposable diapers for the trip. Washing diapers is a hassle in the best of circumstances, so make it easy on yourself. Baby wipes are also widely available unless you are in really rural areas.

Don’t worry about bringing every possible medicine along for every possible thing that could happen. Children get tummy aches and teething problems down there too – they have medicines available for all of these. Don’t be afraid to venture into a farmacia (pharmacy) and explain what the problem is – you will get lots of sympathy, advice, and whatever medication you need.

The one exception is sunscreen. Good quality sunscreen can be hard to find and very expensive. I strongly suggest you bring sunscreen from home.

I would, however, suggest leaving the Pack-n-Play at home. Hauling a portable crib around is really kind of a hassle. Even if your baby doesn’t usually sleep with you, you might try it on a trip to Latin America. If you truly need one, bring it, but you might instead find out if your hotels can provide one.

It’s a good idea to trim down on extra stuff in general. Latin America is the land of stairs, uneven sidewalks, and broken elevators. So try to resist the urge to bring everything and the kitchen sink. Just bring what you actually need. For example, you don’t need four changes of clothes for every day of the trip – it’s pretty easy to get laundry done in Latin America. Even the cheapest hotel will know someone who does laundry.

Strollers are often not that helpful in Latin America. In many places the sidewalks are either nonexistent or very uneven, making strollers impractical If you do take a stroller, take a lightweight umbrella-type stroller that can easily be picked up and carried, if necessary. Baby carriers such as a Baby Bjorn, Snuggli, or a backpack are more useful.

If your baby is still exclusively breast-fed, congratulations – your trip logistics will be pretty easy. Your baby’s food will always be safe, available, and just the right temperature.

If your baby uses formula, infant formula is widely available. With all the safety issues with formula that have come up recently, though, you might want to take formula along. In big cities you can usually purchase formula made by reputable companies, but you might want to have a supply along with you. Be sure to always use purified water to wash the bottles and mix the formula.

If your baby has started to eat solids, you will find plenty of options. Most restaurants will be happy to bring you plain rice or sliced banana, if it’s for the baby. Bananas and avocados are widely available in markets or stores. Larger grocery stores will also have jars of baby food.

Once you are packed, it’s time for the trip itself. Where you go and how much you do will depend a great deal on your baby. Some babies easily nod off on the bus, making long bus trips a snap. Others sob from the noise, crowds, and smell. You know your baby better than anyone. Don’t be afraid to be a bit adventurous, but at the same time, be realistic. You may have a more relaxing trip if you just go to one or two places, and stay there for several days or even weeks. Many babies like routines, and you can get into a little vacation routine if you stay in one place for a while.

Beach vacations are often a big hit. Just be careful with sun exposure. Mountain trips are a bit more problematic. Some children do great, others have problems with the altitude. Unfortunately it’s hard to know in advance if you child will have trouble with altitude sickness. One of my children has no problems adjusting, and the other one gets horribly sick at high elevations. Which brings me to my final point….

Don’t be afraid to change the plan. If everyone’s miserable, scuttle the current plan and do something different. Maybe your baby is having a horrible time with the heat. Changing hotels to a place with air conditioning is not a sign of moral weakness, and it just may save your sanity. Be flexible, and you will all have a wonderful trip – parents and baby too!

But traveling with children also has it’s own challenges and special considerations.  Here are a few of the basics to cover before you depart on your trip.

Passports – Every child, including infants,  must have his/her own passport.  US passports may be obtained through most US post offices.  Apply well in advance, particularly for summer travel – it can take several months to get a passport (you can get a passport in less time, but it is more expensive).

In order to get a passport for a child, both parents must be present when you hand in the application, and give their permission.  If it’s not possible for both parents to apply together, the absent parent can give permission via a notarized statement of authorization.

You will also need a certified copy of your child’s birth certificate ( a simple photocopy will not due, it has to be an official copy), and two passport photos.  Passport photos for an infant can be a bit of a problem, as the baby can’t sit up.  Try going to a portrait studio that specializes in baby pictures.  These are often found in malls or near stores like Sears or Penny’s.  They will have ways to prop the baby up in order to get a proper passport photo.  Their prices are usually quite reasonable, too.

Visas – If you are visiting a country that requires visas, such as Brazil, all children (including infants) will need visas as well.  Most countries charge the same amount for children as for adults, so be prepared – it can be costly.

Permission to Travel -If both parents will not accompany the child on the trip, get a notarized letter from the absent parent giving permission for the child to travel.  Many countries, such as Mexico, absolutely require it – your child will not be allowed to board the plane if you cannot prove that both parents have authorized the trip.   Even if a country does not officially require it, take one along – I was asked for permission to travel for my infant daughter when entering a country that did not officially require any such thing.  Fortunately, being paranoid, I had it.

The letter of permission should include the trip dates and destination.  I usually include a line authorizing the traveling parent to seek medical care for the child if necessary, as well.

Vaccinations.  Infants are often too young for many vaccinations, but be sure your child receives any that he/she is able to get.  Remember, vaccinations are not widespread in many parts of Latin America, so there is no “herd immunity” – diseases spread faster and are more serious.  Infants who are still breast-feeding will get some immunity from their mothers, but vaccinations are still the most effective deterrent.  Check with a travel clinic to find out what vaccinations are recommended for the countries you will be visiting – the usual US vaccinations may not be sufficient.

When to travel – it’s always nice to travel on off days, but even more important when flying with children.   Statistically, Tuesday and Wednesday tend to be the lightest travel days.  Try to avoid travel on Fridays and Sundays – flights tend to be packed, and tensions flare more easily.

Where to go – Anywhere!   Don’t be afraid to take children away from resort areas.  Children can have fun at the beach, in the mountains, or in the city.  Markets, ruins, and bus rides are all an adventure for them.  Don’t be nervous – buy your tickets and start traveling again!

Quito, Ecuador, does offer one oasis for the weary and thirsty wanderer, however. It goes by the name of La Santa Espuma, and you can find it tucked away in a quiet residential neighborhood at the cross streets of Orellana and Whimper just outside of the Mariscal Sucre district. As a brewpub and restaurant, they offer not only various styles of beer brewed in-house, but also some delectable eats to enjoy while sipping a few cold ones. Their repertoire of cervezas consists of a Scottish, a porter, a golden, a heffeweizen, and a periodic seasonal, and they are all a very welcome break from the “Big 2” of Ecuadorian beers. The establishment itself is very stylishly decorated and provides a warm atmosphere for all, especially seated next to the fireplace.

Microbreweries are just as scarce in Peru as they are in Ecuador. Despite online evidence of their existence, finding Peruvian craft beers in person is another matter all together. While in Cuzco one might stumble upon “Cerveza Perkas”. This is actually quite an interesting and innovative brew. It is made with coca leaf, which is a common cure given to anyone suffering from altitude sickness.  Not only is the flavor undeniably distinct, but the medicinal value is a good excuse for pounding back a couple to help yourself acclimatize to the almost 11,000 feet elevation of Cuzco.

Colombia is starting to get on board of the craft beer bandwagon with great examples such as Bogotá Beer Company and Tres Cordilleras. Bogotá Beer Company is responsible for a classic blonde, a red, a black, a porter, and a few seasonals such as a heiffewiezen and a stout. Tres Cordilleras offers three styles: “La Blanca”, which is similar to a heiffeweizen, “La Mestiza”, which is similar to an American Pale Ale, and “La Mulata”, which is a dark more syrupy malted beverage.

Further south in southern Brazil and Argentina, microbreweries are quite numerous and much more accessible.  Some even produce beers that fall into the “Big Beer” category, having breached the 8.0% alcohol content level. Perhaps with the influence and popularity of craft beers from these two countries and interest coming from North America we’ll see more Cervezarias Artesenalas sprout up on the northern part of South America in the near future.

Regardless though, experiencing local cuisine while abroad should be a cornerstone of one’s travels and adding the search for local beverages will greatly enhance the overall experience. Although sparse in certain regions, a brewery tour of South America is most definitely possible and would make for a fun time. A multi city ticket with the partnering airlines Taca and Lacsa would facilitate such a tour in a convenient and inexpensive manner. Contact an Exito Travel agent for questions, comments, and concerns.